“What are your favorite trails to hike in the Smoky Mountains?” That is a question that comes up almost every time one of our guides are out and about and they find out that we are professional trail guides. Honestly, there is no easy answer to that question. The fact that it is so difficult is exactly what makes this Park so unique and iconic. I generally tell them that it depends greatly on the time of year. I truly don’t have just one favorite trail but I’ll try here to narrow it down by season to some of my personal favorites.
Since Fall 2019 is just around the corner, I’ll start with my favorite season. The Smokies are ecologically equivalent to the Eastern Seaboard. What does that mean exactly? We have eco zones similar from Maine to Northern Florida. Recently my husband and I visited Acadia National Park and swore that if we had been dropped blindfolded at our campsite, we would have felt like we were on Mt. LeConte! With beautiful, thick Spruce/Fir forests, everyday feels like being at a Christmas Tree farm. But, step onto one of our iconic Balds and you will have your breath taken away with the amazing colorful sea of mountains below you! One of my favorite fall Balds is an easy one but truly iconic. Andrews Bald. You start at the Clingman’s Dome Parking lot and take the bypass trail .1 miles down. At the crossroads you take a left. As you hike you’ll pass ancient rock formations that geologist say are remnants of our older mountains, around 1 billion years old! They are covered in rare, colorful Rock Tripe. This section of trail takes you through the heady smell of an old growth Boreal Forest. Previously endangered due to air pollution and the non native Balsam Whooly adelgid. With several years of lawsuits, the worst offender, TVA has cleaned up it’s act and the trees are so healthy that there is very little sign left of the non native aphid!
As you continue hiking on the rocky surface, you will begin seeing glimpses of the valley below. On a clear day, you will see Fontana Lake, just outside of Bryson City, NC. The trail continues it’s slow decent until it flattens out somewhat into a nice, forest of spruce, fir and some deciduous trees and plants. During the summer months, you might be lucky enough to pick some high mountain Blueberries, Blackberries and Huckleberries. Your trail continues on this easy stretch until you get to a crossroad of sorts. Continue straight, climbing slightly until you break out to the Bald. Balds are essentially high mountain meadows and are a true mystery to scientists. They are open areas that contain very few plant life. The overwhelming thought is that there are so many layers of acidic soil deposits from the spruce/fir forests, that very few plants are able to grow in that soil. Regardless, they are a delightful treat for the soul. Andrews brings out the child in me and makes me want to channel my inner Laura Ingles from the opening scene of Little House on the Prarie. That Part where she is running through the tall grasses and flowers with a giant smile on her face. That is how I feel every time I break out of the trees of Andrews Bald. When you get to that bald, whether you are running like a happy child or carefully avoiding the hidden holes on the trail, be sure to keep going. The farther on the trail you go, the better the views of the Sea of Mountains. And what views there are! On a clear day you can see over a 100 miles of layers of colorful mountains.
Because Great Smoky Mountains National Park has an estimated 80,000 species, of which there are almost 2000 flowering plants and 140 trees, the colors of fall are like no other place that I have ever encountered. Every color you can imagine is unfolding from early October to mid November and Andrews Bald is the place to see it!
Tips: You will be starting at the crowded Clingman’s Dome parking lot. If you can go early and in the middle of the week, you will avoid the crowds and find plenty of places to park. You will be starting at over 6000 feet in a rain forest. I’ve been in Gatlinburg in shorts and tshirts and ended up in ice and snow on Clingman’s Dome all in one day. Bring layers and rain gear! Although Andrews Bald is less than 4 miles, bring at least 32 ounces of water. Also, people have gotten lost and tragically a woman died recently hiking in rainy, conditions late in the day. Bring a map, compass and flashlight along with plenty of snacks. Trekking poles are not a bad idea either for the rocky terrain. I always bring a small picnic and plan to hang out on the bald for a while. Of course a camera or charged Iphone on airplane Mode is a must!
Extra pro tip: If you are up for an extra adventure, continue for less than a mile past the Bald and enjoy the beautiful and rare display of healthy, American Chestnut Trees!
As always, practice leave no trace.